How often should I condition a leather jacket?

Once or twice a year for a jacket in regular wear, or whenever the leather starts to feel dry and looks matte. Over-conditioning leaves the leather greasy and can darken it permanently.

Can I put a leather jacket in the washing machine?

No. Water and agitation strip the oils from tanned leather and the drum distorts the panels. The jacket will come out stiff, shrunken and permanently misshapen.

What should I do if my leather jacket gets soaked?

Hang it on a wide hanger at room temperature, away from radiators, direct sun and hairdryers, and let it dry slowly. Once dry, condition it — water evaporating out of leather takes oils with it.

How do I remove salt stains from leather?

Wipe the mark with a cloth dampened in one part white vinegar to five parts water, wipe again with clean water, let it dry naturally and then condition the area.

Leather Care Guide

Everyday storage

Use a wide hanger. A thin wire hanger concentrates the jacket's weight on two points and will deform the shoulders permanently.
Give it air. Never store leather in a plastic garment bag — trapped moisture causes mould. A breathable cotton cover is fine.
Keep it out of direct sun. UV fades dye and dries the leather.
Keep it away from heat. Radiators and car heaters dry leather faster than anything else.

Routine cleaning

For most wear a dry cloth is enough — wipe the jacket down every few weeks to lift dust before it settles into the grain. For a fuller clean, use a slightly damp cloth with a little dedicated leather cleaner. Never use household detergent: it is alkaline and strips the finish.

Conditioning

Conditioning replaces oils lost through wear and evaporation. Under-conditioned leather dries and eventually cracks; over-conditioned leather turns greasy and attracts dirt.

Test on a hidden area first — inside a hem or under the collar. Most conditioners darken leather slightly.
Apply a thin layer with a soft cloth, in circular motions.
Leave for a few hours, then buff off any residue.

Once or twice a year is right for regular wear. Suede and nubuck must never be conditioned with a cream — they need a brush and a protective spray instead.

Rain and water

Light rain is not a problem for finished leather. Wipe it down when you get in and let it dry naturally.

A soaking needs more care:

Hang it on a wide hanger at room temperature.
Keep it away from radiators, fires, hairdryers and direct sun — fast drying makes leather stiff and can crack it.
Let it dry completely, which may take a full day.
Condition once dry.

Suede is different: let it dry naturally, then restore the nap with a suede brush.

Stains and marks

Scratches on aniline leather often disappear if you warm them slightly with your fingers and rub gently — the oils in the leather redistribute. That is a feature of unfinished leather, not a fault.
Ink should go to a professional. Alcohol-based home remedies usually lift the dye along with the ink.
Grease can sometimes be drawn out with talcum powder or cornflour left overnight and brushed off. Never rub grease with water.
Salt should be dealt with promptly — dilute white vinegar, then clean water, then dry and condition.

Seasonal storage

Clean the jacket, so nothing sits in the grain for months.
Condition it.
Hang it on a wide hanger in a breathable cover.
Store somewhere cool, dry and dark — not a loft, not a damp cellar.

Never

Machine wash or tumble dry.
Use a hairdryer or radiator to speed drying.
Use saddle soap on a garment leather — it is formulated for much heavier hides.
Store in plastic.
Fold a leather jacket for long-term storage; the creases set.

When to involve a specialist

Zip replacement, relining, re-dyeing and deep cleaning are all routine work for a leather specialist, and all worth doing. A jacket that is structurally sound but looks tired can almost always be brought back — which is the whole argument for buying well in the first place.