Leather is a durable material that is easy to damage through good intentions. Most of the care that matters is about what you do not do.
Everyday storage
Use a wide hanger. A thin wire hanger concentrates the jacket's weight onto two points and will deform the shoulders permanently. A broad wooden or padded hanger spreads it.
Give it air. Leather needs to breathe. Do not store it in a plastic garment bag — trapped moisture causes mould. A breathable cotton cover is fine for long-term storage.
Keep it out of direct sun. Ultraviolet light fades dye and dries the leather. A jacket left on the back of a sunlit chair all summer will show it.
Keep it away from heat. Radiators, car heaters and hot boots all dry leather faster than anything else.
Routine cleaning
For most wear, a dry cloth is enough. Wipe the jacket down every few weeks to lift dust before it settles into the grain.
For a fuller clean, use a slightly damp cloth with a small amount of dedicated leather cleaner — never household detergent, which is alkaline and strips the finish. Work in small sections, and wipe off rather than soaking in.
Conditioning
Conditioning replaces the oils that leave the leather through wear and evaporation. Under-conditioned leather becomes dry and eventually cracks; over-conditioned leather becomes greasy and attracts dirt.
How often: once or twice a year for regular wear. Sooner if the leather feels dry to the touch or has lost its slight sheen.
How: test on a hidden area first — inside a hem or under the collar — because conditioners darken most leathers slightly. Apply a thin layer with a soft cloth, in circular motions. Leave for a few hours. Buff off any residue.
What to use: a conditioner matched to your leather type. Suede and nubuck must never be conditioned with a cream — they need a brush and a protective spray instead.
Rain and water
Light rain is not a problem for finished leather. Wipe it down when you get in and let it dry naturally.
A soaking needs more care:
- Hang the jacket on a wide hanger at room temperature.
- Keep it away from radiators, direct sun and hairdryers — fast drying makes leather stiff and can crack it.
- Let it dry completely, which may take a full day.
- Condition it once dry, because evaporating water carries oils out with it.
Suede is different: let it dry naturally, then restore the nap with a suede brush.
Stains and marks
Scratches on aniline leather often disappear if you warm them slightly with your fingers and rub gently — the oils in the leather redistribute. This is a feature of unfinished leather, not a fault.
Ink should go to a professional. Home remedies involving alcohol usually lift the dye along with the ink.
Grease can sometimes be drawn out by covering the mark with talcum powder or cornflour, leaving it overnight and brushing it off. Do not rub grease with water — it spreads.
Salt stains from winter roads should be wiped with a cloth dampened in a very dilute vinegar solution, then conditioned.
Anything you are unsure about is worth taking to a leather specialist. A cleaning bill is cheaper than a ruined jacket.
Seasonal storage
Before storing a jacket for the summer:
- Clean it, so nothing sits in the grain for months.
- Condition it.
- Hang it on a wide hanger in a breathable cover.
- Store somewhere cool, dry and dark — not a loft, not a damp cellar.
Check on it once mid-season. Leather left completely untouched for years in poor conditions can develop mould or dry out.
What not to do
- Never machine wash or tumble dry.
- Never use a hairdryer or radiator to speed drying.
- Never use saddle soap on a garment leather — it is formulated for much heavier hides.
- Never store in plastic.
- Never fold a leather jacket for long-term storage; the creases set.
When to involve a professional
Zip replacement, lining repair, re-dyeing and deep cleaning are all routine work for a leather specialist and all worth doing. A jacket that is structurally sound but looks tired can usually be brought back — which is the whole argument for buying well in the first place.
